.
What is happening?
I walked down to the point today, early. There were some corners. I paddle out. I was alone. It was "a little junky". It is silly though. If these conditions would have been in other place, they would have been telling every one: " you really missed it!" we aren't in "the point"...although I had surfed a long wave.
After that I shot this.
.
What is happening?
I walked down to the point today, early. There were some corners. I paddle out. I was alone. It was "a little junky". It is silly though. If these conditions would have been in other place, they would have been telling every one: " you really missed it!" we aren't in "the point"...although I had surfed a long wave.
After that I shot this.
.
2 comments:
Not sure what you're talking about wisht hound, one of those is your wave! :-)
Thanks for sharing your thoughts and images - both of which are inspiring. Maintain the stoke.
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